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Notes from Coast Meeting, November 1999 |
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Speaker: Vinny Kutty, professional photographer |
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(notes taken by Larissa Williams) |
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Best Camera type: SLR 35 mil (can find used ones) |
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Close Views: |
- If using Zoom: Focal length 80 mil or better
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- zoom narrows the flash reflecting
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- Macro lenses [60/50/90] Need depth of field
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6-7 inches
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105mm Nikon or Canon
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$550-$650
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(minimum focal distance: 200/3ft 100/6in)
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- Extenders can be useful, but:
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Starts degrading the picture
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Eats up light
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Depth of field is smaller
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Lighting: |
- Flash! (doesn't really matter types)
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- Don't attach on the camera itself, use separate with an extender
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45° angle for flash, parallel to tank with camera
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- One source of light produces harsh shadows
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- using 2 sources removes them.
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- Two sources are better than one, 3 is even better than 2!
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- To get the multiple flashes at same time, use an AC slave strobe ($19, plugs into the wall). Place on top of the tank, facing down.
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Technical: |
- Aperture is the lens: 2.8 wide open. 3.3 is 1/2 of 2.8. 5.6 is 1/2 of 3.3. Controls how much light coming in. f22 depth of field. You want the *whole* fish, and get more depth of focus by shuttering down.
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- Shutterspeed is the camera. The sutterspeed doesn't matter with a flash. 1/25 is okay. Without flash, a 1/25 would be blurry.
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- Hint: Store film in the refrigerator
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- Quality of film print today is good. 50 speed is best, 100 speed is a good speed for fish. 200 or 400 is still grainy when developed. (Personal opinion for print vs. slide is that slide will hold the picture better over time.)
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Technique: |
- In a normal tank, use the 3 strobes flash. Be aware that all dust and stuff in the tank will show in the picture. Clean the tank!!!! Undergravel filter, no algae
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- 3 sides painted black
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- No scratches on front
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- Replace often
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- Set up ahead of time, let plants grow
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- Always take pictures in soft water -- hard water will show more grains.
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- Focus on the eye of the fish.
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Vinny's website: |
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www.geocities.com/NapaValley/5491/ |
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(mostly cichlids) |